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From
the Old French linge, meaning “linen,” the term
“lingerie” was originally introduced into the English language
as a euphemism for scandalous underclothing. While the actual term
“lingerie” was not in widespread use until the late 1850s,
lingerie as it implies general underclothing has a long and
elaborate history.
Lingerie
as we know it is a relatively recent concept. In the early part of
the 20th century, women’s underwear was designed for
functionality rather than sensuality. No one, with the possible
exception of a burlesque Dancer, bought underwear to be seen in
it. Until 1960s, women’s underwear served three main purposes:
Corset
:
The
corset, arguably the most controversial garment in the entire
history of fashion, was officially introduced when women began
inserting rigid materials such as whalebone into the “busk” or
“basque” of cloth bodices in the late sixteenth century. The
basque was a slot down the center front of the corset that was
thicker at the top than at the bottom and could extend from above
the bust to the waist.
The
Renaissance brought a new focus on womanly curves, and women went to
unnatural extremes to achieve the perfect hourglass figure. Corsets
of the day were highly restrictive and tightened to the point of
being dangerous. In fact, lingerie was often so tight that ribs were
broken or pushed out of place! Many women actually passed out from
the excessive constriction.
Cleavage
was highly prized in the 18th century, and lingerie was designed to
heighten the effect. Although corsets were still made of constrictive whalebone, there was a definite
movement towards the decorative lingerie we know today. The push-up
corsets were adorned with ribbon, lace, and intricate embroidery. By
the end of the century, doctors were speaking out about the health
hazards of corsets and the less-restrictive designs were introduced.
By
the 19th century, consumer demands and doctor outrage brought about
a lingerie revolution. Corsets became smaller, less restrictive, and
less cumbersome. These reconstructed designs allowed freer movement
and easier breathing. They also provided more support for the
breasts and were appropriately named "brassiere," which
is French for "support." An important time in the history
of lingerie.
(17th
Century Corset)
Girdle:
During the 1920s, the
corset was gradually replaced by the girdle. The girdle also shaped
the body, but used elastic material rather than bindings, which was
much more comfortable and less extreme. The girdle was designed to
smooth a woman’s body, and give it a more appealing line. The girdle
either started at the shoulders, or at the
waist. It was closed by either hook and eye type closures
(such as
in modern day brassiers) or zippers. At
the bottom of the girdle were usually fasteners that clipped to
stockings to hold them in place. By the 1960s the girdle
gradually disappeared and was replaced by the panty girdle. The
panty girdle was replaced by (control top) pantyhose.
(Note
Girdle extending from the stomach to the legs)
Garters:
In
1876, garters that hooked to a woman’s stockings were invented and
French dancers created great excitement when they showed glimpses of
their garters stretched across their thigh. The garters were
actually functional because they anchored the corset so that it
could not ride up, allowing it to be worn in a less restrictive and
tight manner.
Garter
belts were a common, popular alternative to the girdle (a larger
garment designed both to shape the body and to hold up suspenders)
in the 1940s to 1960s, especially among teens and young women. The
garter belt was simpler and more practical than the girdle because
it basically was used only to hold up stockings. It was considered
more comfortable than a girdle.
(Garter
Belt (above panties) with straps attached to stockings)
The
Bra (Brassiere):
The
bra, or "brassiere,", is French for "support."
As
women in the early 1900s participated in more sports and vigorous
dancing, they began to throw out their corsets in favor of more
comfortable brassieres. In 1913, Mary Phelps Jacob, later known as
Caresse Crosby, felt the corset was too restrictive for dancing in
the nightclubs and claimed she invented the bra by tying two
handkerchiefs together with ribbons. In contrast to the Victorian
whalebone bodices and corsests, Jacob’s brassiere was soft, short,
and gave a clear, natural separation between the breasts. She later
sold the patent to Warner Brothers. The tango craze in 1915--as well
as World War I and, to a lesser and indirect extent, the woman’s
movement--encouraged the demise of the corset. The farewell to
tighter garments, however, was short lived as woman turned to the
girdle to achieve the long, lean, and androgynous clapper look of
the 1920s.
After the war,
however, and during the Great Depression, bosoms returned. The
“bra,” a shortened from of “brassiere,” changed from
flattening breasts in the 1920s to accentuating them. In 1935,
Warner Brothers introduced cup sizes, which acknowledged that women
come in all shapes and sizes. The “alphabet bra” consisted of
four cup sizes: A, B, C, and D. Double-D came along later and
Double-A later still (Ewing 1976). During World War II, materials
used to make undergarments, such as steel and rubber, were in short
supply, so manufactures turned to synthetic materials which would
eventually lead to Lycra, rayon, and Lastex.
The 1950s brought
engaging and amusing bras due in part to the film industry. Stars
such as Lana Turner became known as the “Sweater Girl” because
of her famous cone-shaped brassieres. Jane Russell even had a bra
designed by aeronautical engineer Howard Hughes that famously
accentuated her bust. The glamor of the 1950s once again valued the
hourglass figure, and lingerie manufactures began to flourish and
were soon launching their own brand names to build customer loyalty.
But the feminist
and hippie movements of the 1960s and 1970s denounced lingerie as
conformist and artificial. Bras in particular were seen as
restrictive, uncomfortable, and mendacious and, famously, bra
burning became a symbol of women’s liberation. The 1960s brought
back the young, free, androgynous figure of the 1920s with women
often wearing skimpy briefs and little else which allowed them to
wear mini skirts and jeans.
By the late 1970s, cleavage made a return and developments in
technology and fabrics led to more intricate and mass-marketed
lingerie, including the Wonderbra2
which gave a “push up and plunge” effect. During the 1980s,
padded and wire bras became top-selling items. Victoria’s Secret
and La Perla3 lingerie lines grew in popularity as women
demanded a soft and sensual style.
(Bra)
Panties:
Until
1970s, women’s underpants (panties in
America
, knickers in
England
) served one main purpose: protection and cleanliness of the
outerwear. Neither sexy nor attractive, they were originally
designed to be functional. In the 1800’s they were called
‘drawers’. Some drawers were full body outfits; others
just came to the waist. Usually
the longer type had convenient flaps in the backs, as shown in the
photo, so that the wearer did not have to get undressed when
using the toilet. Drawers and knickers had one thing in common that
is almost unknown today; the underwear extended down to cover a part
of the thigh as can be seen in this 1935 ad for Vanity Fair panties
where three thigh lengths are offered (click on ad to enlarge). As
time went on, ladies underwear became smaller and smaller. First,
the thigh covering became shorter and shorter until by the 1950s
they completely disappeared and the panty was born.
But even then
panties were large,
baggy and unattractive as can be seen in this 1956 ad for
Lollipops ladies ‘briefs’. By the 1960s, companies like
Frederick
’s of
Hollywood
started to glamorize lingerie. In this ad from 1961, the string
panty is clearly seen (click on ad to enlarge). Though not a
common place item for many decades to come the string, or glamour
string as Frederick's called it, is proof that lady's underwear have
gone from full body covering to the barest of essentials. Where will
they go from here?
(Funny
demonstration of panties - but pretty accurate examples of how
they've gotten smaller)
Currently there is lingerie for all situations and intentions,
including lingerie that is padded, gel-filled, air-filled,
strapless, and backless. Also offered are the sexy thong, teddy,
chemise, and peignoir as well as a plethora of everyday bras and
panties. Contemporary lingerie can be whatever women want it to be.
From “granny panties” to G-strings to fetish wear, women have
more choices now than at any time in history.
Pantyhose:
Pantyhose
are stockings woven with a built in pair of "panties",
which serve to hold the stockings up, among other purposes.
The
miracle of the pantyhose is that it combined for the first time, the
panty and stockings into one garment. Until the late 1950’s the
girdle got smaller and lighter, but stockings were a separate item
that had
to be clipped to a garter belt or girdle. In 1959, Glen Raven combined the panty with
the stockings and created the first pantyhose. It was a combination
of two events that pushed pantyhose into the fashion mainstream, and
stockings off to the side; the creation of inexpensive and more
comfortable types of pantyhose, and the popularity of the miniskirt.
The
miniskirt looked best when worn with hose, but thigh high hose and a
garter belt did not give the desired look. Then, in 1965 the better
pantyhose were first mass produced, worked perfectly with the
miniskirt.
(Panty
hose - extends all the way up to the stomach)
Stockings:
Stockings
are leg-wear that covers from your toes to your thighs; each leg is
separate and they are held up either by a garter belt or, in the
case of stay-ups, by the elastic band(s) in the thigh area.
For
many years it was considered proper for ladies to cover their legs.
Right up until the 1960’s it was still considered to be
inappropriate for women to be seen without stockings. No
self-respecting women would be seen in public with bare legs. Influential models and actresses tried to set a trend and go
bare-legged, but it was not until the 1980’s that it finally
became accepted as respectable for ladies to leave their stockings
off.
(Stockings)
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